Essaouria HELLLO!! I thought we'd never make it!
After a stressful last few days with lots of traveling and moving around, we have finally settled down for the week in Esaouria. Got on a bus this morning at 10:30 and arrived at 1:30 (just like the bus schedule said we would!) and were escorted to our home for the next week.
Why do I emphasize home? Because that is exactly what it is, not an apartment, or a hotel, but a HOUSE, in the middle of the medina.
Two floors and a terrace. A kitchen, three bedrooms, three bathrooms with actual toilets and showers, and a living room. It's beautiful and perfect.
Its so nice to know that I can unpack my stuff and NOT have to carry around my backpack for an entire week
Thanksgiving in Tangier was great, lots a friends, good food, booze, and skype time with everyone's families, mine included :)
Took a 10 hour train ride on friday to Marrakech, sprung for first class so despite the length it was a fine
Had a....interesting weekend in Marrakech, where I stayed with friends at Earth Cafe (yes the vegan restaurant) and not at a hotel. Had some awkward exchanges with the owner, who despite being totally bizzarre is really nice
Walked around in the High Atlas mountains, at a Moroccan ski resort (which, unfortunately hadn't opened yet for the season) and was totally in awe at the splendor of the mountains (with snow on them!)
had Thai food for dinner in Marrakech, a great grilled veggie pita sandwich today for lunch, and of course tasty food at earth cafe.
Those are my updates for the past few days and despite the cool things I've done I'm happy to be where I am, and done more or less with traveling through Morocco.
in other news, now I have to actually start writing my 20 page research paper.....
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Fresh CHobz
Today started with a stop at the bread oven next to my hotel, where Drew and I got chobz to order fresh off the oven. The first three chobz to be made of the day actually. Well actually it started when I crawled out of bed this morning to walk through the rain to wire money to a friend that had lost her wallet. On the walk back Drew and I decided to pick up some breakfast things since we were already out. The final purchases were peanut butter (of course), yogurt, eggs (which I scrambled for my pals), random cracker like things, and FRESH chobz, wrapped in my scarf to keep them warm.
To back track a little....after escaping to Fes from the massacre that was Rabat, I headed north to meet up with friends. Our route for the past few days: Tangier, Tetouan, Chefchaouen, and back again.
Short description: BLUE, green and Cold (at least Tetouan and Chefchaouen)
So hung around in Tangier for a two days....saw Elizabeth Stocksdale which was just woooonderfuul.
What a funky, sketchy town Tangier is. Totally can see the remnants of groovy glamor that attracted the Beats, but now it is kinda gray, cold for us, and a little sketchy and scary (Adelaide got pick pocketed)
We moved on from there on Sunday via grand taxi to Tetouan, which was GREEN and COLD.
A very cute, European looking town in the valley of two huge mountain ranges. We wandered around and saw a Bollywood gangster movie at the local theater. I really liked it there but our hotel was SUPER funky (weird scents from the bathroom) so it was nice to leave.
On to Chefchaouen on Monday. Somehow managed to secure ourselves a personal tour guide who took us to a very nice hotel (laundry machine, kitchen, beautiful garden, HOT SHOWER) where we were the ONLLY people staying. After getting situated, our "guide" took us to this huge blanket and carpet store where we had a VEERRY long, streesful, and trying experience but managed to escape only a few thousand dirham poorer. Got beautiful things though.
Instead of giving you a play by play on the rest of our stay in Chaouen, I'll sum it up. We shopped, ate, and tried to stay warm and dry in our hotel. Did our laundry (which got rained on), made ourselves a real breakfast, and spent tons of money.
It was a beautiful two days. The Rif mountains are probably my favorite thing in Morocco. They are so green and magnificent, the people are so mountainous and rugged looking. Spanish is everywhere, which always makes me feel comfortable, and the food is wonderful too.
Took the bus back to Tangier today for Thanksgiving tomorrow at our friends apartment. Were all very excited for that and the fact that we are THAT much closer to arriving in Essaouria where WE will have our OWN apartment for a WHOLE WEEK! our own space, not having to lug around luggage, sleep in grimy hotels, or eat out every meal ooooohhhh i can't wait!
To back track a little....after escaping to Fes from the massacre that was Rabat, I headed north to meet up with friends. Our route for the past few days: Tangier, Tetouan, Chefchaouen, and back again.
Short description: BLUE, green and Cold (at least Tetouan and Chefchaouen)
So hung around in Tangier for a two days....saw Elizabeth Stocksdale which was just woooonderfuul.
What a funky, sketchy town Tangier is. Totally can see the remnants of groovy glamor that attracted the Beats, but now it is kinda gray, cold for us, and a little sketchy and scary (Adelaide got pick pocketed)
We moved on from there on Sunday via grand taxi to Tetouan, which was GREEN and COLD.
A very cute, European looking town in the valley of two huge mountain ranges. We wandered around and saw a Bollywood gangster movie at the local theater. I really liked it there but our hotel was SUPER funky (weird scents from the bathroom) so it was nice to leave.
On to Chefchaouen on Monday. Somehow managed to secure ourselves a personal tour guide who took us to a very nice hotel (laundry machine, kitchen, beautiful garden, HOT SHOWER) where we were the ONLLY people staying. After getting situated, our "guide" took us to this huge blanket and carpet store where we had a VEERRY long, streesful, and trying experience but managed to escape only a few thousand dirham poorer. Got beautiful things though.
Instead of giving you a play by play on the rest of our stay in Chaouen, I'll sum it up. We shopped, ate, and tried to stay warm and dry in our hotel. Did our laundry (which got rained on), made ourselves a real breakfast, and spent tons of money.
It was a beautiful two days. The Rif mountains are probably my favorite thing in Morocco. They are so green and magnificent, the people are so mountainous and rugged looking. Spanish is everywhere, which always makes me feel comfortable, and the food is wonderful too.
Took the bus back to Tangier today for Thanksgiving tomorrow at our friends apartment. Were all very excited for that and the fact that we are THAT much closer to arriving in Essaouria where WE will have our OWN apartment for a WHOLE WEEK! our own space, not having to lug around luggage, sleep in grimy hotels, or eat out every meal ooooohhhh i can't wait!
Thursday, November 18, 2010
The Massacre....and days leading up to it
it's been awhile, and oh so much has happened. I'm not even sure where to begin.
So I am officially done with classes here, we finished Arabic last Thursday (I got a B on our final woohoo!)
My official stay with my host family ended when I left them Saturday for Marrakech. It was sad (ish) but not really. My host mom told me that she would be "waiting for Tuesday" which is when I told her I was going to be back in Rabat for Aid Al-Fadhr (information to come)
So from Marrakech friends (adelaide, anna and drew) and I took a day trip to the Cascades Ouezaane, ate at Earth cafe again, made delicious guacamole, relaxed and went to the owner of Earth Cafe's organic farm. It was a lovely trip. Monday morning (after visiting the farm) we got back on the train. Drew and Anna got off in Rabat and Adelaide and I continued on to Fes.....our final destination. After 9 hours on the train we finally got to Fes and after a short struggle to get a taxi made it easily to Hotel Cascade, our humble sleeping quarters for the night. Organized our stuff and then off to Cafe Clock one of the coolest places I've been and the only reason I went to Fes.
To start, we got iced mint tea and iced coffee, neither of which exist here.
Adelaide got the Camel Burger, which is what Cafe Clock is "famous" for. I got a preserved lemon and chickpea veggie burger.....it was incredibly delicious (pictures will come)
both of our dishes came with homemade french fries and normal salads, with ACTUAL lettuce
despite the satisfaction in our stomachs, we opted for dessert. we got two, sticky date pudding and chocolate fudge cake. YUM.
REturned the next morning for breakfast: fresh fruit with homemade granola and yogurt and riccotta pancakes with caramelized bananas..... i could go on for daays about the tasty flavors and warm feelings this food gave me BUUTT instead ill tell you about the TERRIBLE flavors and feelings wednesday left me with.....
The slaughtering of the sheep (pictures WILL be posted)
so i got to my host family tuesday and was greeted with a little sheep staring up at me, tomorrow was THE DAY
woke up wedensday morning around 830 to have breakfast, aka various breads and sweets
while we waited for the butchers to come
they came. took our sheep up to the roof terrace (where our neighbor already was with their sheep) and slit its throat, skinned it and took out all its insides.
then my neighbor killed their sheep.
then my host mom took me back down stairs to our other neighbor's and had me film and take pictures of two other sheep get killed.
the intial slitting of the throat wasn't that bad, in comparison to the minute or so after when the sheep is dying and twitching and sort of running in place while its head is slopped back with blood steaming out of its throat.
after enjoying that wonderful sight four times I went back to my house where I helped my host mom clean and prepare all of the insides for eating.
Lunch consisted of Lung and Liver wrapped in fat and served kebob style, AND a stew of stomach, bladder, windpipe and many other unidentifiable organs
I have never craved bread so badly while eating a meal here....usually i try to figure out ways to avoid the bread thats served, not wednesday, i WANTED that bread and LOOOTS of it!
wandered the streets and watched heads and hooves being roasted and sheep skins EEVERYWHERE
dinner: heart and leg cous cous.....worst cous cous i've ever had
By the end of the day I was so worn out form having to constantly give myself mental pep talks and pretending the things that were happening weren't actually happening.
what an experience, and one i hope i won't have again.....though my host mom wants me to come back again next year JUST for it.
there is still an entire sheep hanging in the tiny space that is my hallway....thank god I left today and escaped the scent that had begun permeating everything I own.
and tried erasing the flavors with the wonderfulness that is Cafe Clock (yes I went back to Fes to experience it again)
So I am officially done with classes here, we finished Arabic last Thursday (I got a B on our final woohoo!)
My official stay with my host family ended when I left them Saturday for Marrakech. It was sad (ish) but not really. My host mom told me that she would be "waiting for Tuesday" which is when I told her I was going to be back in Rabat for Aid Al-Fadhr (information to come)
So from Marrakech friends (adelaide, anna and drew) and I took a day trip to the Cascades Ouezaane, ate at Earth cafe again, made delicious guacamole, relaxed and went to the owner of Earth Cafe's organic farm. It was a lovely trip. Monday morning (after visiting the farm) we got back on the train. Drew and Anna got off in Rabat and Adelaide and I continued on to Fes.....our final destination. After 9 hours on the train we finally got to Fes and after a short struggle to get a taxi made it easily to Hotel Cascade, our humble sleeping quarters for the night. Organized our stuff and then off to Cafe Clock one of the coolest places I've been and the only reason I went to Fes.
To start, we got iced mint tea and iced coffee, neither of which exist here.
Adelaide got the Camel Burger, which is what Cafe Clock is "famous" for. I got a preserved lemon and chickpea veggie burger.....it was incredibly delicious (pictures will come)
both of our dishes came with homemade french fries and normal salads, with ACTUAL lettuce
despite the satisfaction in our stomachs, we opted for dessert. we got two, sticky date pudding and chocolate fudge cake. YUM.
REturned the next morning for breakfast: fresh fruit with homemade granola and yogurt and riccotta pancakes with caramelized bananas..... i could go on for daays about the tasty flavors and warm feelings this food gave me BUUTT instead ill tell you about the TERRIBLE flavors and feelings wednesday left me with.....
The slaughtering of the sheep (pictures WILL be posted)
so i got to my host family tuesday and was greeted with a little sheep staring up at me, tomorrow was THE DAY
woke up wedensday morning around 830 to have breakfast, aka various breads and sweets
while we waited for the butchers to come
they came. took our sheep up to the roof terrace (where our neighbor already was with their sheep) and slit its throat, skinned it and took out all its insides.
then my neighbor killed their sheep.
then my host mom took me back down stairs to our other neighbor's and had me film and take pictures of two other sheep get killed.
the intial slitting of the throat wasn't that bad, in comparison to the minute or so after when the sheep is dying and twitching and sort of running in place while its head is slopped back with blood steaming out of its throat.
after enjoying that wonderful sight four times I went back to my house where I helped my host mom clean and prepare all of the insides for eating.
Lunch consisted of Lung and Liver wrapped in fat and served kebob style, AND a stew of stomach, bladder, windpipe and many other unidentifiable organs
I have never craved bread so badly while eating a meal here....usually i try to figure out ways to avoid the bread thats served, not wednesday, i WANTED that bread and LOOOTS of it!
wandered the streets and watched heads and hooves being roasted and sheep skins EEVERYWHERE
dinner: heart and leg cous cous.....worst cous cous i've ever had
By the end of the day I was so worn out form having to constantly give myself mental pep talks and pretending the things that were happening weren't actually happening.
what an experience, and one i hope i won't have again.....though my host mom wants me to come back again next year JUST for it.
there is still an entire sheep hanging in the tiny space that is my hallway....thank god I left today and escaped the scent that had begun permeating everything I own.
and tried erasing the flavors with the wonderfulness that is Cafe Clock (yes I went back to Fes to experience it again)
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Dreaming of Zaalouk
As my time in Rabat's Medina, and with my host family comes to a close, I've begun reflecting on this whole experience.
The other day my host mom made zaalouk, which is a eggplant, pepper, and tomato pate-like dish. It was delicious and I can't stop thinking about it. Last night she made beans, which are (of course) also on my mind.
Things that I previously disliked, or that bothered, I am now looking back on with fondness such as M'barka, my host mom, making me breakfast every morning....whatever will I do when I have to make my own pot of tea every morning??
It's been nice being so settled into Rabat, and it's going to be weird to change my lifestyle again but I am SO excited to travel, and be on my own and not have to go through all of the mental stress of when to go home, how to ask for a shower, how to tell them I'm going out etc.
I'll apologize now for the negative things I've posted. Writing is a wonderful outlet, and when I can't express my frustrations to friends here, I use this as a source of letting loose. So despite the not so positive things I've written, I've enjoyed my time here....immensely. Even though it hasn't always been easy, and a lot frustrates me I wouldn't change any of it.
So that's my update for the day....and a few pictures from the olive picking/pressing we did this past Saturday:
The other day my host mom made zaalouk, which is a eggplant, pepper, and tomato pate-like dish. It was delicious and I can't stop thinking about it. Last night she made beans, which are (of course) also on my mind.
Things that I previously disliked, or that bothered, I am now looking back on with fondness such as M'barka, my host mom, making me breakfast every morning....whatever will I do when I have to make my own pot of tea every morning??
It's been nice being so settled into Rabat, and it's going to be weird to change my lifestyle again but I am SO excited to travel, and be on my own and not have to go through all of the mental stress of when to go home, how to ask for a shower, how to tell them I'm going out etc.
I'll apologize now for the negative things I've posted. Writing is a wonderful outlet, and when I can't express my frustrations to friends here, I use this as a source of letting loose. So despite the not so positive things I've written, I've enjoyed my time here....immensely. Even though it hasn't always been easy, and a lot frustrates me I wouldn't change any of it.
So that's my update for the day....and a few pictures from the olive picking/pressing we did this past Saturday:
Friday, November 5, 2010
Why I Love Couscous Friday Part TWO
 |
| COUS COUS |
 | |||
| My "zone" |
NOW FOR THE GOOD STUFF:
 |
| Got my hair did |
 |
| Sister and hairdresser Oumaima (and I'm wearing the fancy new shirt my host mom made for me!) |
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Potential Titles
I am constantly thinking of ways to describe my experiences here and usually I only get as far as a title. Everything interesting has turned into such ordinary things for me that I don't know how to write it out, so this blog is the collection of titles that have been sitting in my draft folder (I have to give credit to Adelaide who suggested the idea to me). Hopefully they can shed some light on everyday things here
Peanut Butter I have become addicted
Feign Snack Bag? (where is the snack bag?) a snack bag is CONSTANTLY with us
Raif, let me count the ways I can eat you I am/we are constantly coming up with ways to eat Raif
The Search for Red Raif the only thing better than regular raif....red raif (onions, chili oil and sometimes olives cooked into raif)
Anna Taliba (I am a student) one of the few phrases I can say in Arabic...shopkeepers love it
La Shukran (no thank you) another Arabic phrase....verrry useful
Snails are constantly being stewed in the streets...NOT a pleasant smell
Popcorn Man makes fresh popcorn on the street in the medina and he is wonderful
"Heey Spice Girls" my favorite cat call
Street Harassment: I Surrender no explanation needed
Nighttime Yoga what would I do without it?!?
THe ants are BAACK in my house....they are EVERYWHERE, always....I can't escape them
Peanut Butter I have become addicted
Feign Snack Bag? (where is the snack bag?) a snack bag is CONSTANTLY with us
Raif, let me count the ways I can eat you I am/we are constantly coming up with ways to eat Raif
The Search for Red Raif the only thing better than regular raif....red raif (onions, chili oil and sometimes olives cooked into raif)
Anna Taliba (I am a student) one of the few phrases I can say in Arabic...shopkeepers love it
La Shukran (no thank you) another Arabic phrase....verrry useful
Snails are constantly being stewed in the streets...NOT a pleasant smell
Popcorn Man makes fresh popcorn on the street in the medina and he is wonderful
"Heey Spice Girls" my favorite cat call
Street Harassment: I Surrender no explanation needed
Nighttime Yoga what would I do without it?!?
THe ants are BAACK in my house....they are EVERYWHERE, always....I can't escape them
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
AP's Best Week Ever
Disclaimer: I'm no bragging, but this past week has been one of the best of my life, tiring but wonderful....the food, the smells, the sights, everything.
Oh the places I've been, the things I've seen....how do I even begin to describe them to you
I guess I'll just have to start from the beginning
The Route: Ifrane, Azrou, Midelt, Erfoud, Merzouga, Erb Cheggi Dunes, Rissani, Nekob, Ouarzazate, Atlas Mountains, Marrakech, Essaouria
Left Rabat early Saturday morning for Ifrane, a small resort town in the Middle Atlas mountains that is home to the Al Akhawayn University, which is modeled after the American system and everything is in English. Being in the mountains, it felt like Fall. It was windy, gray, and chilly and it basically felt like I was back on a small college campus in the US. What a drastic change from Rabat, and everywhere else I've been these past months.
We got a tour there, and had lunch there (which was not so tasty) and then got back onto the bus to stop in Azrou, which is apparently the oldest town in the Middle Atlas Mountains. It was cute and funky, we got some tea to warm us up and prepare us for another bus ride and the Cedar Forest, which was absolutely stunning....i love trees (and i showed them my love by hugging them, yes i hugged some trees)
Also saw the famous Barbary apes there, which was pretty cool.
Stayed the night in Midelt at a BEAUTIFUL hotel where I shared a HUGE room with Drew. First night away from Rabat/of the excursion so we all enjoyed ourselves with wine during and after dinner. I don't think I've laughed so much here yet.
Breakfast the next morning was a sight to be seen.....eggs, so much chobz, raif, dates, fruit, cookies, donuts, stuffed raif that tasted like indian food and MORE.
Ate and boarded the bus for a LOONNNG and windy bus ride through the mountains. the mountains, i cannot even begin to describe. So big, so vast, stretching in every direction. Lunch in Rissani before getting into land rovers to go to the desert for the night. Lunch was great....well the salad appetizers were great. Lentils, beans, pepper-tomato dip, squash dip and hearty chobz yumm. "Moroccan Pizza" for the main course which was weird but good, just chobz stuffed with mashed up veggies
Land Rover ride not so fun since I didnt enjoy the people I was sharing it with but I was too giddy to be completely miserable. Got to our hotel in the dunes and rode camels to the top to watch the sunset. Words honestly cannot describe what I saw and how I felt the entire time, it was just too spectacular. The whole time I was thinking "this is not real, am I really in the African desert right now??!?!"
Dinner that night was......absolutely incredible, i love the south....so much flavor!!!
So after getting back from the camel trek, my friends and I went out under the stars and had a little fun with my sipsi before going to dinner. At dinner we enjoyed a gnawa (type of music) musical performance and the exact types of food my fresh vegetable deprived body has been craving. So many types of salads, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, lentils and so much more. I had maybe three heaping plates full, it was AWESOME
the next morning I woke up at 4:30 to climb to the highest dune and watch the sun rise. it was so cold and dark when we woke up (i was miserable) climbing to the top was not an easy trek (especially after all this chobz eating) but I managed it and i am so glad i did. literally there was no sun and then it was just there, a huge ball of fire. watching the sun come over the horizon and begin to warm the cold sand (and my body) reaffirmed my choice in coming to this place.
Climbing (or sliding) back down was fun and we were rewarded with warm backs and a breakfast feast once we made it to the hotel (raif, dates, olive oil, honey, jams, etc)
Packed up and took the land rovers back to Rissani...this time my car was full of people I liked so all was well. Walked around there for a little (bought some things) and then loaded onto the bus to travel to Nekob, which is somewhere in the Draa Valley I believe. Everything was beautifully styled after Kasbahs and the hotel/organization we ate at was so peaceful and pretty. Not hungry but the food we had was wonderful....a communal appetizer plate that included rice, eggplant, onions, peppers and squash. Then a special veggie tagine for me, but it actually had lots of flavor so that was a great change.
Climbed BACK onto the bus and wound through the mountains for a few more hours until we reached Ouarzazate, which is called the "Hollywood of Morocco" on account of a zillion movies (Gladiator, Black Hawk Down, etc) being filmed there. We stayed the night at a dorm for girls who come from villages in the Atlas mountains to attend school. We put our stuff down there and then walked aound and explored the city a little before coming back for dinner. Typical Moroccan dinner: Harira (soup) and cous cous, which we enjoyed with the girls. At this point I could barely keep my eyes open so dinner was a little painful but cool that we tried, and somewhat managed to communicate with the girls. After presentations, dinner, and a little music I climbed into my bunk bed and went to SLEEP.
Left the next morning around 8. Longest bus ride ever through the mountains. I slept alot but managed to stay awake for some of the more spectacular parts, such as the highest point in the Middle Atlas where you can see the Snow of the High Atlas off in the distance.
After what seemed like forever we made it out of the mountains onto flat land aka SO CLOSE TO MARRAKECH
First impressions: flat, clean, wide streets, deserty feeling but still GREEN....big city, verrry organized
Got to our hotel, put our stuff down and had lunch (more salad like stuffs!) showered (finally) relaxed a little and then out to explore! Walked to the main square (Jeema El Fna) where we enjoyed fresh squeezed orange-grapefruit juice from one of the many carts and watched the scene. And what a scene it was....so many nuts and dried fruit stands, orange juice stands, musicians, magicians, snake charmers, ladies doing henna.....it was like walking into a carnival.
We wandered around the souks for a little in search of a cafe we had read about in a guidebook, foound it in the spice souk....got spiced tea (others got spice coffee, cinnamon tea...yum)
managed to find our way back to the main square where, with the setting of the sun, everything had totally changed. Now food stalls created little streets and smoke and scents of food cooking poured through the air. As we walked through the rows, men tried in everyway to make us eat at their booths. We chose number 97 after much debate, and we were NOT dissapointed. salsa-like dip, olive/chili dip, olives, and chobz greeted us as we sat down. After chowing down we ordered kebobs, and various salads...i ate the salads which were very tasty. Got this special tea (made of soo many spices) after dinner at another stand, which though slightly spicy i really enjoyed.
Walked back to the hotel, put our new purchases down and went to a a seedy local bar Point Rouge. Cheap beers, drunk locals, band + singer....very entertaining. When it started closing for the night we hopped into a taxi and went to Le Theatro (a night club) where it happened to be ladies night aka no cover for me or my girls and a free drink. It was so much fun, we drank, danced, and went wild. At one point there was a little cirque du Soleil esque act that went on, the bar was lit on fire, and every time a VIP guest ordered a drink they had sparklers.
Haggled intensely with the taxi drivers (and not for the last time on this trip) and finally got the price down enough that we were satisfied with our bargaining skills. Oh to be drunk in Morocco.
The next day...still in Marrakech. We left the hotel around 11, picked up snacks/breakfast and walked to les Jardins Majorelle, where we snuck a picnic and wandered through the beautiful pathways with what felt like a million other tourists.
After leaving there we walked through a junk yard/flea market, various souks and the streets of the medina before visting various museums. LOTS of walking today.
Back to the main square for a quick snack (of course) of nuts and juice before beginning our search for the Earth Cafe, a vegan restaurant in the medina......
SUCCESS.
Signs leading up to the turn began the excitement. The warm smell of cooking garlic that wafted up my nose as I stepped through the little blue door made my heart pound. "Veggie burger, spring rolls, rice and lentils...." Reading the words on the menu made my mouth water. My eyes lit up when my veggie burger was set in front of me....essentially a potato patty resting gently onto of a mountain of lightly sauteed veggies. I took a tentative first bite, and then dug in....only slowing down to take forkfuls of my friends dishes.
Talk about satisfying your soul.
Returned to Point Rouge again, then hit up ClUb Silver, which was a total bust, and then Pacha, the biggest club in Africa with the best sound system.....that was COMPLETELY EMPTY.....which was fine, we danced alone.
Bargained like it was our job to get a taxi back to the hotel where I layed down and immediately fell asleep.
Up at 7:30 to take the bus to Essaouria, with a quick stop at a Women's Argan Cooperative's Shop to listen to a presentation and sample some goods (very tasty)
Lunch at Chez Sam on the port in Essaouria, not good and went on entirely too long. Drama with our hotel so we had to move but I finally managed to make it to the beach where I read my book and relaxed all alone....ahh peace and quiet.
Met back up with friends and watched the sunset from a rooftop terrace, then went to meet our group for dinner which was also not so great BUUUT it was in a square that was also home to 3 veggie restaurants....where we were patrons the following evening (keep reading for more info on THAT amazing meal)
SIT left the next morning but I stayed with six friends. Moved our stuff to a different hotel (in the medina) and went to lounge on the beach. After being hassled there quite a bit we went on a very successful search for a Mexican restaurant Max had stumbled upon the day before.
Owned by a British couple, the restaurant wasn't all it's name said it was, but DELICIOUS none the less. Got chili which was not soup but rather beans and veggies cooked in tomato, chili flavors and served with rice and salad. Finished up lunch with delicious homemade deserts....banana bread, scones, chocolate torte yuuuuum I was in food heaven
Got the owners info in case we come back during ISP and want to rent an apartment
Walked around a little shopping (had tea with a shoe salesmen who I bought a pair of sandals from) before stopping briefly at the hotel, changing, and heading out again to search for a place that served alcohol. You are probably thinking SOO MUCH DRINKING AMIEL! and in a Muslim Country too....but hey we were on vacation and wanted to treat ourselves.
Got some bottles of wine at a bar like place, which we drank fairly quickly to make it to dinner at the veggie restaurants we had seen the night before
What an experience. Somehow asked the waiter if they had wine, which because they were not licenseed they did not but he said he could get someone to bring some if we kept it covered up under the table...we agreed.
The food, oh man the food....absolutely incredible. Shared a salad, veggie burger, and spring rolls with Drew and Adelaide and we all CLEANED our plates.
After stuffing ourselves with delicious food and mediocre wine we proceeded to have a drum circle with our waiter and other restaurant staff and share a lovely pot of tea with them.
Group Consensus: We love Essauria, most definitly coming back during ISP
Woke up early the next morning to try to catch the bus back to Marrakech so I could meet up with Lindsey (known form here on out as LSR). First bus we tried was full, so we started to leave to try another station when a lady called us back and suggested we take a mini bus that would be 60 dh instead of the 70 we were orignially going to pay....of course we agreed. The driver got there and told us NO it was actualy 100 dh. we said no and started to leave again, he said okay okay fine 70....we agreed.
By this point I was NOT a happy camper. Had totally hit my wall, exhausted, anxious to see LSR and just not in a good mood.
THe driver sucked, it took us so long to get there and when we did we paid him the 500 dh agreed upon. He FREAKED out, threw Grace's backpack back into the van and started saying we owed him 700 dh (100 each) and yelling stuff about the police, who WE went and got and they told us that the driver was right, a mini bus ALWAYS is 100 dh per person (its the law). FUcking snake of a driver, we were PISSED.
oh well, at least we were in Marrakech and that much closer to finally seeing LSR.
Found a hotel, wine (to drown our frustrations away) and made it to the Earth Cafe for round two. These three things may seem easy but they were not...I won't go into the little frustrations that make Moroccans drive me nuts.
wonderful lunch/5 pm meal, sunset on the roof of the hotel and LSR in the square!!!!!!!!!!
what a wonderful reunion....
walked around shopping and catching up etc until we got hungry again and chose a food booth to eat at.
Finished the last bottle of wine at her hostel before saying goodbye heading back to ours. A wonderful afternoon and evening to counter the terrible morning....typical Morocco
Train the next day back to Rabat where I spent the late afternoon into the evening at the train station attempting to catch up on internet responsibilities.
This week was wonderful (how many times have I used that in this post? WAAAy too many, but i'm at a loss for other adjectives)
groovy people, incredible sights and activities, loooong bus rides, trying experiences, travel woes, friends from home.....and sunshine, good food, and wine (among other substances) to go along with iit
Activity packed week, I'm exhausted and have been up since 7:30 am (back to Arabic three hours a day woohoo) but I'm not planning on going anywhere this weekend so hopefully I'll get some rest then before starting my ISP traveling, researching and paper writing!
Oh the places I've been, the things I've seen....how do I even begin to describe them to you
I guess I'll just have to start from the beginning
The Route: Ifrane, Azrou, Midelt, Erfoud, Merzouga, Erb Cheggi Dunes, Rissani, Nekob, Ouarzazate, Atlas Mountains, Marrakech, Essaouria
Left Rabat early Saturday morning for Ifrane, a small resort town in the Middle Atlas mountains that is home to the Al Akhawayn University, which is modeled after the American system and everything is in English. Being in the mountains, it felt like Fall. It was windy, gray, and chilly and it basically felt like I was back on a small college campus in the US. What a drastic change from Rabat, and everywhere else I've been these past months.
We got a tour there, and had lunch there (which was not so tasty) and then got back onto the bus to stop in Azrou, which is apparently the oldest town in the Middle Atlas Mountains. It was cute and funky, we got some tea to warm us up and prepare us for another bus ride and the Cedar Forest, which was absolutely stunning....i love trees (and i showed them my love by hugging them, yes i hugged some trees)
Also saw the famous Barbary apes there, which was pretty cool.
Stayed the night in Midelt at a BEAUTIFUL hotel where I shared a HUGE room with Drew. First night away from Rabat/of the excursion so we all enjoyed ourselves with wine during and after dinner. I don't think I've laughed so much here yet.
Breakfast the next morning was a sight to be seen.....eggs, so much chobz, raif, dates, fruit, cookies, donuts, stuffed raif that tasted like indian food and MORE.
Ate and boarded the bus for a LOONNNG and windy bus ride through the mountains. the mountains, i cannot even begin to describe. So big, so vast, stretching in every direction. Lunch in Rissani before getting into land rovers to go to the desert for the night. Lunch was great....well the salad appetizers were great. Lentils, beans, pepper-tomato dip, squash dip and hearty chobz yumm. "Moroccan Pizza" for the main course which was weird but good, just chobz stuffed with mashed up veggies
Land Rover ride not so fun since I didnt enjoy the people I was sharing it with but I was too giddy to be completely miserable. Got to our hotel in the dunes and rode camels to the top to watch the sunset. Words honestly cannot describe what I saw and how I felt the entire time, it was just too spectacular. The whole time I was thinking "this is not real, am I really in the African desert right now??!?!"
Dinner that night was......absolutely incredible, i love the south....so much flavor!!!
So after getting back from the camel trek, my friends and I went out under the stars and had a little fun with my sipsi before going to dinner. At dinner we enjoyed a gnawa (type of music) musical performance and the exact types of food my fresh vegetable deprived body has been craving. So many types of salads, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, lentils and so much more. I had maybe three heaping plates full, it was AWESOME
the next morning I woke up at 4:30 to climb to the highest dune and watch the sun rise. it was so cold and dark when we woke up (i was miserable) climbing to the top was not an easy trek (especially after all this chobz eating) but I managed it and i am so glad i did. literally there was no sun and then it was just there, a huge ball of fire. watching the sun come over the horizon and begin to warm the cold sand (and my body) reaffirmed my choice in coming to this place.
Climbing (or sliding) back down was fun and we were rewarded with warm backs and a breakfast feast once we made it to the hotel (raif, dates, olive oil, honey, jams, etc)
Packed up and took the land rovers back to Rissani...this time my car was full of people I liked so all was well. Walked around there for a little (bought some things) and then loaded onto the bus to travel to Nekob, which is somewhere in the Draa Valley I believe. Everything was beautifully styled after Kasbahs and the hotel/organization we ate at was so peaceful and pretty. Not hungry but the food we had was wonderful....a communal appetizer plate that included rice, eggplant, onions, peppers and squash. Then a special veggie tagine for me, but it actually had lots of flavor so that was a great change.
Climbed BACK onto the bus and wound through the mountains for a few more hours until we reached Ouarzazate, which is called the "Hollywood of Morocco" on account of a zillion movies (Gladiator, Black Hawk Down, etc) being filmed there. We stayed the night at a dorm for girls who come from villages in the Atlas mountains to attend school. We put our stuff down there and then walked aound and explored the city a little before coming back for dinner. Typical Moroccan dinner: Harira (soup) and cous cous, which we enjoyed with the girls. At this point I could barely keep my eyes open so dinner was a little painful but cool that we tried, and somewhat managed to communicate with the girls. After presentations, dinner, and a little music I climbed into my bunk bed and went to SLEEP.
Left the next morning around 8. Longest bus ride ever through the mountains. I slept alot but managed to stay awake for some of the more spectacular parts, such as the highest point in the Middle Atlas where you can see the Snow of the High Atlas off in the distance.
After what seemed like forever we made it out of the mountains onto flat land aka SO CLOSE TO MARRAKECH
First impressions: flat, clean, wide streets, deserty feeling but still GREEN....big city, verrry organized
Got to our hotel, put our stuff down and had lunch (more salad like stuffs!) showered (finally) relaxed a little and then out to explore! Walked to the main square (Jeema El Fna) where we enjoyed fresh squeezed orange-grapefruit juice from one of the many carts and watched the scene. And what a scene it was....so many nuts and dried fruit stands, orange juice stands, musicians, magicians, snake charmers, ladies doing henna.....it was like walking into a carnival.
We wandered around the souks for a little in search of a cafe we had read about in a guidebook, foound it in the spice souk....got spiced tea (others got spice coffee, cinnamon tea...yum)
managed to find our way back to the main square where, with the setting of the sun, everything had totally changed. Now food stalls created little streets and smoke and scents of food cooking poured through the air. As we walked through the rows, men tried in everyway to make us eat at their booths. We chose number 97 after much debate, and we were NOT dissapointed. salsa-like dip, olive/chili dip, olives, and chobz greeted us as we sat down. After chowing down we ordered kebobs, and various salads...i ate the salads which were very tasty. Got this special tea (made of soo many spices) after dinner at another stand, which though slightly spicy i really enjoyed.
Walked back to the hotel, put our new purchases down and went to a a seedy local bar Point Rouge. Cheap beers, drunk locals, band + singer....very entertaining. When it started closing for the night we hopped into a taxi and went to Le Theatro (a night club) where it happened to be ladies night aka no cover for me or my girls and a free drink. It was so much fun, we drank, danced, and went wild. At one point there was a little cirque du Soleil esque act that went on, the bar was lit on fire, and every time a VIP guest ordered a drink they had sparklers.
Haggled intensely with the taxi drivers (and not for the last time on this trip) and finally got the price down enough that we were satisfied with our bargaining skills. Oh to be drunk in Morocco.
The next day...still in Marrakech. We left the hotel around 11, picked up snacks/breakfast and walked to les Jardins Majorelle, where we snuck a picnic and wandered through the beautiful pathways with what felt like a million other tourists.
After leaving there we walked through a junk yard/flea market, various souks and the streets of the medina before visting various museums. LOTS of walking today.
Back to the main square for a quick snack (of course) of nuts and juice before beginning our search for the Earth Cafe, a vegan restaurant in the medina......
SUCCESS.
Signs leading up to the turn began the excitement. The warm smell of cooking garlic that wafted up my nose as I stepped through the little blue door made my heart pound. "Veggie burger, spring rolls, rice and lentils...." Reading the words on the menu made my mouth water. My eyes lit up when my veggie burger was set in front of me....essentially a potato patty resting gently onto of a mountain of lightly sauteed veggies. I took a tentative first bite, and then dug in....only slowing down to take forkfuls of my friends dishes.
Talk about satisfying your soul.
Returned to Point Rouge again, then hit up ClUb Silver, which was a total bust, and then Pacha, the biggest club in Africa with the best sound system.....that was COMPLETELY EMPTY.....which was fine, we danced alone.
Bargained like it was our job to get a taxi back to the hotel where I layed down and immediately fell asleep.
Up at 7:30 to take the bus to Essaouria, with a quick stop at a Women's Argan Cooperative's Shop to listen to a presentation and sample some goods (very tasty)
Lunch at Chez Sam on the port in Essaouria, not good and went on entirely too long. Drama with our hotel so we had to move but I finally managed to make it to the beach where I read my book and relaxed all alone....ahh peace and quiet.
Met back up with friends and watched the sunset from a rooftop terrace, then went to meet our group for dinner which was also not so great BUUUT it was in a square that was also home to 3 veggie restaurants....where we were patrons the following evening (keep reading for more info on THAT amazing meal)
SIT left the next morning but I stayed with six friends. Moved our stuff to a different hotel (in the medina) and went to lounge on the beach. After being hassled there quite a bit we went on a very successful search for a Mexican restaurant Max had stumbled upon the day before.
Owned by a British couple, the restaurant wasn't all it's name said it was, but DELICIOUS none the less. Got chili which was not soup but rather beans and veggies cooked in tomato, chili flavors and served with rice and salad. Finished up lunch with delicious homemade deserts....banana bread, scones, chocolate torte yuuuuum I was in food heaven
Got the owners info in case we come back during ISP and want to rent an apartment
Walked around a little shopping (had tea with a shoe salesmen who I bought a pair of sandals from) before stopping briefly at the hotel, changing, and heading out again to search for a place that served alcohol. You are probably thinking SOO MUCH DRINKING AMIEL! and in a Muslim Country too....but hey we were on vacation and wanted to treat ourselves.
Got some bottles of wine at a bar like place, which we drank fairly quickly to make it to dinner at the veggie restaurants we had seen the night before
What an experience. Somehow asked the waiter if they had wine, which because they were not licenseed they did not but he said he could get someone to bring some if we kept it covered up under the table...we agreed.
After stuffing ourselves with delicious food and mediocre wine we proceeded to have a drum circle with our waiter and other restaurant staff and share a lovely pot of tea with them.
Group Consensus: We love Essauria, most definitly coming back during ISP
Woke up early the next morning to try to catch the bus back to Marrakech so I could meet up with Lindsey (known form here on out as LSR). First bus we tried was full, so we started to leave to try another station when a lady called us back and suggested we take a mini bus that would be 60 dh instead of the 70 we were orignially going to pay....of course we agreed. The driver got there and told us NO it was actualy 100 dh. we said no and started to leave again, he said okay okay fine 70....we agreed.
By this point I was NOT a happy camper. Had totally hit my wall, exhausted, anxious to see LSR and just not in a good mood.
THe driver sucked, it took us so long to get there and when we did we paid him the 500 dh agreed upon. He FREAKED out, threw Grace's backpack back into the van and started saying we owed him 700 dh (100 each) and yelling stuff about the police, who WE went and got and they told us that the driver was right, a mini bus ALWAYS is 100 dh per person (its the law). FUcking snake of a driver, we were PISSED.
oh well, at least we were in Marrakech and that much closer to finally seeing LSR.
Found a hotel, wine (to drown our frustrations away) and made it to the Earth Cafe for round two. These three things may seem easy but they were not...I won't go into the little frustrations that make Moroccans drive me nuts.
wonderful lunch/5 pm meal, sunset on the roof of the hotel and LSR in the square!!!!!!!!!!
what a wonderful reunion....
walked around shopping and catching up etc until we got hungry again and chose a food booth to eat at.
Finished the last bottle of wine at her hostel before saying goodbye heading back to ours. A wonderful afternoon and evening to counter the terrible morning....typical Morocco
Train the next day back to Rabat where I spent the late afternoon into the evening at the train station attempting to catch up on internet responsibilities.
This week was wonderful (how many times have I used that in this post? WAAAy too many, but i'm at a loss for other adjectives)
groovy people, incredible sights and activities, loooong bus rides, trying experiences, travel woes, friends from home.....and sunshine, good food, and wine (among other substances) to go along with iit
Activity packed week, I'm exhausted and have been up since 7:30 am (back to Arabic three hours a day woohoo) but I'm not planning on going anywhere this weekend so hopefully I'll get some rest then before starting my ISP traveling, researching and paper writing!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)